A Dance With The Devil

IN 1993 the leader of a multi-billion dollar drug empire was brought to his knees during a spectacular arrest at his Guatemalan bolt hole. Being a particularly resourceful drug boss, El Chapo managed to escape from his Mexican prison and return to the Sinaloan Cartel throne. In 2014 he was re-arrested at a fancy hotel […]

Bye Bye Baja, hello Mexico

“WELCOME to the Baja, ain’t she beautiful!” Waving his arms around like a proud father Bob leaned out of the pricy restaurant and shook our hands before again welcoming us to his little town. “You’ll just love it here!” He slurred. “You enjoy yourselves now.” We’d scarcely been back in Mulege for three hours and already a […]

Beaches, blow flies and Baja’s cactus carraterra

BEACHY and bright San Felipe proved to be the Tampa, Florida of the Baja. It was filled to the brim with snow-birds (Americans and Canadians escaping winter) gringo expats in varying states of “sh*t-faced” and opportunistic Mexicans keen to flog as many patterned blankets, bejewelled skulls or sombreros as possible. Mostly, they just sold cheap tequila […]

A monumental mistake in the land of monuments

“SHORTCUTS make long delays” – JRR Tolkien. It turns out we’d forgotten this little pearl of wisdom while route planning the road south to Monument Valley. In fact, while packing up to farewell Moab and ride steadily uphill on Highway 191 we forgot more than just the sage advice of Frodo Baggins, but apparently any advice […]

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